Nov

The world’s top 10 rock climbing locations

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From near-vertical granite walls and icy ascents, to contorted sandstone spires, bolted volcanic domes and hanging limestone crags, every climber will have a personal preference of what represents the world’s ‘best’ rock climbing.

Famous climbing location, El Capitan in the US

Yosemite - home to 'El Cap' Image: Flickr/ jitze

Plucking out some of the best-known and most revered routes from around the globe, our ‘top ten’ embraces this diverse discipline, and gives an insight into some of the most challenging routes in the sport.

If you’re unhealthily obsessed by scaling massive chunks of rock and making your way back down again, be sure to attempt at least one of these world-class challenges at some point in your lifetime.

1. El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, US
In the north of Yosemite National Park, the largest exposed granite monolith in the world rises 900 metres above sea level. A sheer vertical ascent, with almost no joints, ‘El Cap’ has two main faces and offers routes of varying difficulty; of these, ’the Nose’ is both the most famous and the most challenging route, and was first summited in 1958 by US climber, Warren Harding.

2. Matterhorn, Zermatt, Switzerland
At 4,478 metres tall, the Matterhorn is one of the highest peaks in the Swiss Alps. First climbed in 1865 by British climber Edward Whymper and his team, the Matterhorn was the last great Alpine peak to be climbed, signalling the end of the Golden Age of alpinism. One of the Alp’s deadliest peaks, three of Whymper’s team were lost on the descent and, since 1865, more than 500 climbers have perished here. Whilst the Hörnli ridge is the most popular route to the summit, the North Face – which was first summited in 1931 – is considered the most challenging.

On top of Stolen Chimney. Image: Flickr/sirpthatch

3. The Stolen Chimney, Fisher Towers, Utah, US
The western formation of Utah’s ‘Fisher Towers’ is known as ‘Ancient Arts Tower’. Within this series of sandstone turrets is the gnarled spire of the Stolen Chimney, rising 250 feet above the desert floor, and culminating in a wedge-like peak, known as ‘Corkscrew Summit’. Its bulbous shape makes it technically different from other climbs in the area and its iconic form has meant that the Stolen Chimney has been regularly featured in mainstream ads and Hollywood films.

4. Nameless Tower, Baltistan, Northern Pakistan
The best-known granite spire in Pakistan’s ‘Trango Towers’ series, rises 6,239 metres above the Baltoro Glacier, alongside some of the largest cliffs and most challenging climbs on the planet. The summit of Nameless Tower juts 1000 metres above the ridgeline and, of the eight recognised routes to the peak, ‘Eternal Flame’ is a favourite. The first climber to summit the tower was Joe Brown and his team in 1976.

5. Paarl Rock, South Africa
Also known as Pearl Mountain, this domed rock is the second largest granite outcrop in the world (after El Cap). With few handholds, its smooth surface and rounded shape make for a challenging climb, making Paarl’s dozen or so bolted routes the domain of experienced climbers only.

6. Cerro Torre, Patagonia, Argentina
Rising 3,128 metres above a glacier, this sheer, snow-clad wall is the tallest in a chain of four granite peaks. Brutally steep and exposed to Patagonia’s unforgiving elements, Celle Torre presents a formidable challenge to even the most accomplished climbers. First summited in 1959 by Cesare Maestri (Italy) and Toni Egger (Austria), in just four days, many climbers still consider this to be one of history’s greatest ascents.

Amazing views climbing in Kalymnos Image: Flickr/ Or Hiltch

7. Kalymnos Island, Greece
Endless walls of featured limestone and more than a thousand bolted sport routes make Kalymnos Island one of the most popular climbing locations in the Med. A stunning island setting and easy-to-access climbing spots adds to the attraction, with many of the best routes found near the town of Massouri. Expect a massive diversity of climbs, from slabby technical routes to craggy overhangs. A year-round rock-climbing destination, Kalymnos is best visited outside the crowded summer season.

8. Cochamo Valley, Chile
The Cochamo Valley is home to thousand-metre walls and granite crags, with plenty of unclimbed lines still awaiting a first ascent. The ‘Yosemite of South America’, Chile’s glaciated National Park is far less developed that its US cousin, and visitors can enjoy much greater freedom here, without the park restrictions – and amenities – of Yosemite. One of Cochamo’s most famous climbs is known as ‘E.Z. Does It’ – a challenging crack and slab ascent of the valley’s most prominent face, ‘Trinidad’.

9. The Dolomites, Italy
Just south of the Austrian/Italian border, The Dolomites is a vast area of vertical limestone peaks, many of which rise to over 3000 metres above the region’s rolling Alpine meadows. For many, the Dolomites’ major attractions are its 800 metre, multi-pitch walls, which can be easily reached via short walks from the road; the most famous of these is the Cima Grande – at 450 metres, this sheer, 16-pitch big wall climb draws ambitious climbers from around the globe and is considered one of the greatest north walls in the Alps.

10. Wharepapa, New Zealand

New Zealand’s premier rock climbing destination is a region of volcanic crags and cliff-faces, located just two hours south of Auckland. Wharepapa offers more than 2500 unique climbing routes, suitable for all abilities; climbing instruction is readily available here and the many bolted routes are ideal for getting accustomed to the local conditions. Some of the most popular spots here include Waipap, Smith Rocks, Wherepapa Crags and Froggatt Edge. Not one of the world’s most extreme rock climbing locations, but one of the best for sheer diversity and volume.